Langmusi, iPhone monks and the long journey back

There are 3 hours till our 20-hour train back to Beijing departures. We’re in Langzhou and Mikkel is fast asleep, so I figured I’d just internet the morning away since there’s not much to do here. Here’s the blog from the 7 hour bus ride from Langmusi to here:

22/7

That was one compressed Langmusi trip, but definitely worth it, We had to head back after only one day because we have to catch a train in Langzhou the 23th and the busses here in southern Gansu are a bit… Chinese. Stop everywhere to pick up people and a little girl just toiletted in the trash can. The scenery is drop dead gorgeous, though: Impressive red mountains, lakes and a beautiful mosque every kilometer. Feels like being in the Middle East all of a sudden.

We had decided to go to Langmusi yesterday, so while haven’t felt that I really experienced the monastery in Xiàhé, I got up at 5.45 to observe the morning prayers. The village was already starting its buzz, but still had the quiet holiness of early morning. I didn’t see the thick stream of Chinese tourists anywhere, so I thought I was too early, but turned out I was just in time. The monks were sitting in rows in lotus position, moving back and forth chanting partly in throat singing. It was such a strong experience; I never tried anything like it. It is obviously made for trance, and even though I’m not a Buddhist, I still felt the spirituality very strongly and got almost mesmerized. At around 7.00 all the Chinese tourists showed up in their corny hiking gear, monstrous cameras and no respect at all, walking the wrong direction in the monastery, talking in their cellphones, taking pictures inside and of local people in their obviously sacred moment. It was about time catching the bus as well, so I hurried back, woke Mikkel and the French-Vietnamese woman up and we only just made it.

When we arrived in Langmusi it was pouring down and the whole village was made of thick, brown mud. We took the first available hostel, but later found out that there was a whole street with youth hostels and cafés. Well, we know that for next time! Would definitely be worth it for a longer stay since the night atmosphere seemed a lot livelier than in Xiahe. We have to go back sometime for the horse trek anyway which we didn’t make.

What we did had time to see was the TWO Tibetan monasteries there. The village is right upon the boarder of Gansu and Sichuan with just the river dividing it, so it was even more a mix of everything and everyone, still mainly the Tibetan, Hui (Muslim) and Han (“normal” Chinese) people.  The Gansu monastery was a lot under construction, so we mainly looked at it from the outside and got our picture taken by Chinese people. If these ridiculously big cameras are supposed to be some sort of phallus enlarger I definitely feel assaulted by now. Since there wasn’t much to see, we strolled/hiked around in the fantastic green hills filled with sheep and nomads. We walked next to an old man and since it rained he got our umbrella. Really nice guy.

Then we walked to the Sichuan monastery which was really crowded with monks! And under construction, think the whole village was. The monks were working hard as well, repairing roofs, digging out the river, playing with their iPhones… It’s funny to see how at least the young monks/apprentices are just like other young people, not particularly holier. I think a lot of them are monks because their family thought it would be a good idea. Or I heard it’s kind of free high school, so a lot of young people choose it because of that. They’re laughing, joking, sleeping during the prayers – which still was awesome! After having been joking around with them, laughing at the French-Vietnamese woman’s ancient cellphone, we sat in the temple during their chanting (or perhaps chanting practice since they weren’t completely confident in it) and they (except from the sleeping guy) completely switched to being serious, moving back and forth with their eyes closed. They had around 5-6 different “songs” they switched between and there were special hand gestures, ringing with bells and waving incense around according to the songs.

Behind the Sichuan monastery was a gorge we just as might could check out. A lot of eagles again! And a lot of monks practicing playing these giant horns that reached the ground. It sounded a bit like farting and looked like it acquired a lot of concentration. They were joking around still, making fun of each other when they couldn’t get the proper sound, but it was still kind of magical in the gorge and all. It was a bit tricky getting through the gorge though. You had to cross the river several times by jumping stones in the water. Not my specialty! At one place we had 5 monks and a Chinese tourist family guiding/cheering for us and they lent me an umbrella for support. It was a bit more difficult on the return though since they had gone and there was more water in the river. The French-Vietnamese took her shoes off, threw them to the other side – and accidentally threw one in the water. Oops. I tried to walk through the bushes instead with no luck, so I went back and starred at the river again. It didn’t make it any smaller. I took my shoes of as well and also threw one of my shoes in the water. I did make it to the other side though.

We’re saying goodbye to tsampa, yak meat, butter tea and all the beautiful people now and started our long journey home. 7 hours of bus, 20 hours of train, 9 hours of flight. There should be plenty of time to adjust to the thought, but it still feels weird. I’m not sure if I can adapt to Danish life again. Food and transportation are gonna be ridiculously expensive and I have to pick up proper manners again. Sigh.

(We’ve been without internet for a few days, pics will come later)

20/7/2012

We’re back on the backpacker’s life again. Right now I’m sitting in the possibly worst hostel I’ve ever stayed at. When we asked for the dorm beds we reserved, they started out by saying they didn’t do dorms. Well… They have no common room, kind of expensive, 20RMB for wifi (which doesn’t work) which is usually for free, 20RMB for bikes they didn’t want to find for us and was broken which they wanted us to pay for to fix. When that’s said, Xiàhé and the surrounding areas are amazing.

After finishing at the project, we have one week to travel in. We really wanted to go to Tibet (cliché alert), but apparently you have to be at least 5 people from your own nationality going and leaving at the same time. Impossible with such a short notice, so now we’re in one out of two autonomous Tibetan counties in China, Xiàhé, in Gansu province. The village is roughly split up in three, a Han part (the vast majority of Chinese), Hui part (muslim minority) and a Tibetan part. The Tibetan part is dominated by a large monastery, Labrang, with beautiful white and golden stupas and flat roofed brown houses for the monks. Surrounding it all are mountains with eagles soaring surprisingly close to people. I’ve never been that close to a wild predator! And the whole area is so up high that not even clouds, long sleeves, hats and sunscreen can keep us whiteys from turning lobster.

Lobster or not, we had to explore this place. After walking up the hills enjoying the view, we met a Tibetan guy (who studied Tibetan at the University where the guy I was sitting next to in the bus was a teacher at) who followed us through the inner Kora around the monastery, clockwise of course, spinning all the prayer wheels which require a surprising amount of effort. Again, Asian old people are so much more hardcore than back home, observing all these old ladies long-falling (or whatever this lying down, getting up, lying down thing is called) the whole 3 km again and again. The outer Kora which was at the top of the hills around the village passing prayer flags and more eagles.

In spite of the not so socially equipped hostel, we’ve manage to hang out mostly with a Vietnamese/French woman and a Chinese guy (in our bus and dorm), an Israelian girl and Spanish guy (who met each other travelling) and a couple of Czech and Dutch guys who’s been hitchhiking around and sleeping under the stars (and randomly met as well).

Yesterday the four of us tried to bike to the closest grasslands, Sangke, but had to go back and have lunch with some monks. Freshly made Tsampa (small balls of yakbutter, yakcheese and barleyflour), Tibetan Baosi (steamed, stuffed buns) and Tibetan bread (which is sooo good). We tried to go for the grasslands after, but my tire went flat and had to drag it home while the others went – in spite of a very friendly attempt to fix it by the local people!

Today we went to the even further grasslands Ganjia. I’m not sure that our tour was as authentic as the tour the other guys at the hostel were talking about, but it was something! First of all, the landscape of the area is incredibly beautiful with grass coated hills with prayer flags on top and scattered nomad tents. To have such a big home is unbelievable. We then went to a 2000 year old village, then down into a holy cave (I and the Chinese guy chickened out on the halfway. I’m talking seriously narrow, steep and slippery here, which our guiding monk had no problems with), to another old monastery where women apparently were prohibited and then to a place for skyburials*. I’m not sure if the pieces of skull, hair, flesh and bone were really human, but included with the driver almost vomiting, it made up a better scene than any museum could have shown. Tomorrow we will hopefully go to Langmusi, another Tibetan village.

The Tibetan people are really beautiful: Their faces, their clothing – especially the scarlet monk outfit – and their monasteries. I must admit that I prefer the language to the Han Chinese as well, while it sounds more… Indian/Middle Eastern. Their style is really awesome and would make any hipster go jealous. The men wear big, round sunglasses, leatherjackets, earrings and Stetson hats while the women have colourful shirts, skirts, two long braids joined at the end and Stetsons as well. They remind me a bit of the native South Americans’ aesthetics, but in general it’s funny how many similarities there are to find between the native South America and more ancient/old school China.

(*In the mountains it’s often impossible to bury the dead, so they cut up the body and feed it to the birds)

Goodbye CMC!

(We haven’t had internet for a few days, pics will come later)

17/7/2012

Sitting here in the airport on our way to Gansu province, our last travelling before going back to Denmark on the 25^th. These days have been hectic: a lot of packing, last goodbyes (except that it’s not goodbye, but “see you”) and struggling to get our 4.200 kuai* deposit back. The last thing is probably not happening since the agent claims never to have said or written anything and the police says that we have to sue them. We might have a chance if they find a new tenant to pay a deposit before we leave, but even then it’s not sure. The good thing is that our roomies and landlord are in a pickle as well. They can’t pay the rent by themselves, so this time they’re finally on our side!

One of Mikkel’s friends who is going to Denmark for studying is helping us a lot with both deposit and accommodation (at her friends’). I guess she is helping us partly because we will be useful when she comes to Denmark, but it is kinda how everything works here. “I scratch your back, you scratch mine”. In the beginning I really hated thinking like this “what do I get in return/what do I have to do in return”, but actually it’s very frank in a way and it doesn’t feel bad to ask people for favors since you know that it’s understood that you will owe them a favor then.

Well! Yesterday, in the middle of panic-pack-attack we decided to go swimming with a couple of friends in Tuanjiehu Park. We live so close and have never been there! And it was very nice. Except that it was a bit expensive and rich-people’ish. There was a lot of Chinese with tattoos! Really nice Chinese style ones, but it’s also the hip, rich, young elite, so it probably doesn’t represent the majority. Also it was very old school with all those men smoking in their speedos.

And today was the last day and I still can’t realize. I had something stuck in my eyes a few times I must admit, but except of the awesome ECD leader I was the only one. Strange. Either it’s not okay to cry in public, they are sure we’re going to meet again or they aren’t that bothered that we’re leaving. I’m going for one of the two first explanations; at least that’s what I want to believe. We got a “We will miss you” at least! Aww.

(*Should probably have explained that the Chinese currency is called RenMinBi (=people’s money) and that the official way of saying 4,5 RMB is 4 yuan and 5 jiao while the non-formal way is 4 kuai and 5 mao.)

Heiqiao Community Center

Yesterday I went to another CMC community center in Heiqiao, not that far from Dongba where we work. Even though I love our center and the atmosphere there almost is folk high school’ish because of the LVS living there, Heiqiao is really nice. Quite in fact!

They are doing summer camp courses and the ECD leader’s roomie (who works in Heiqiao) asked me to help doing the music because they are in desperate need of volunteers. They must be, ’cause apparently the few chords I know on guitar was sufficient to qualify me for the job. It was about 20 minutes on bike from the other center and I hadn’t planned anything on my day off, so whyyy not.

Heiqiao is built of containers, but the classrooms are bright and well equipped and I didn’t have to do anything, but sit and smile and play “Old McDonald” whenever I was queued. They had cute kittens playing around in the office and the atmosphere was great. Wished we had known about it earlier! But no, I’m definitely going home now. I think. Well, at least the tickets says arrival in Copenhagen the 25th of July, 16:15. But I might come back…

Anyway, even though the sky might appear blue to some people, thunderclouds multiplied quickly when we were off, making us bike fast through the slow, fat raindrops that darkened the dusty ground around us. We biked so fast that the chain of my bike got jammed and we had to stand in pouring rain for 15 minutes trying to fix it alone in the middle of nowhere except from all of the cars passing by not stopping to help us. With some frustrated shouting and hitting it with sticks it finally got loose and we joyfully biked home singing “Old McDonald” from the top of our lungs accompanied by the sound of thunder and occational Swedish cursing (it seemed more appropiate at that time) whenever the cars went full on through the 20 cm deep pools on the road making us – if possible – even more dirty and soaked.

We made it home safe and refreshed, had a shower and I borrowed some dry clothes and got a pair of one-time-use paper panties. There’s a first time for everything! As for my first Danish cooking (well, first cooking at all!) in China. I made a decent attempt to create frikadeller and boiled potatoes with garlic butter. I guess I failed a bit (of course because of the wrong ingredients and horrible substitute butter, not lack of skills), but the smell was enough to bring forth a small tear in the corner of my eye, longing for the Danish fjords. Could have been the spring onions or the disappointment of actually understanding “bu xihuan” which I wasn’t supposed to, but the first option sounds nicer anyhow.

Last day with LVS before going to Gansu province  hopefully experiencing a bit of the Tibetan atmosphere is the 17th of July. I guess it’s good to have a bit of travelling before going home to make the transition easier, but I can already feel lump in my throat when thinking about leaving. Now it’s for real, it’s actually happening in less than a week. Especially when the LVS students ask

“What will you do when you go back Denmark?”

“I will start studying at the university.”

“But you can study in China!”

“I know, but it’s more complicated, maybe I can come for one semester, I’m not sure…”

“Oh… I hope you come back China. I will miss you.”

The Wall

My sister and her friend are in Beijing after two months of travelling China, so we decided to go to the wall (the big one) together this Sunday.

First in the morning I was asked to give my students a test and give them grades. I decided to do a 2-5 minutes oral test with basic questions concerning their curriculum. But it’s really difficult with the grades, wish I could just write comments to them all.

1. Because they only had one lesson pr. week in 4 months and are coming f.rom very different levels and backgrounds

2. I don’t know if to judge them by the test alone, their perfomance in generel, their ability to conversate easily or by their grammar and pronounciation. And I have no training or guidelines in this.

3. It’s sorta my friends now or at least our relation is more friendly than teacher-student. This means a lot to some of them and I can’t just give them all good grades, that would be an insult to the ones who study hard. And I’m afraid that even though the ones I’ve been talking the most with ARE good in English (they talk a lot with me = practice), it still seems like I’m favourizing them because I know them more personally. Then again, they should know by now that it’s crucial to take responsibility for their own learning, especially in China.

WELL, enough about that, now the WALL. Mikkel and I hurried from Dong Ba home to pack a bit of food, water and extra clothes and then hurried to Dongzhimen bus station to meet the others. We had decided to find the least crowded part of the wall and sleep close by. Huong Hua Cheng seemed to be a good choice since it’s officially closed, so we found a bus (4RMB) and went. We had to change in a village and of course everybody wanted to scam us “there is no bus, mei you” , of course, but luckily we had a guardian grandma who was shaking her head at all the minibuses if the price was too high in her opinion. Tough lady, we didn’t even have to haggle, they could tell she was on our side!

Finally, 60RMB later we arrived in Huong Hua Cheng in the afternoon, just in the middle of the wall (it was cut on the middle). We found a guesthouse (100RMB a room), put our stuff and started walking south on the wall (2RMB). It looked something like this:

If it looks steep, it’s because it was.

We went back to have dinner at the guesthouse since the big trip was gonna be next day and went to bed at 9 pm. In the morning when the alarm rang at 4.45 it was raining cats and dogs though, so we cleverly decided to sleep a little longer since there wasn’t going to be much sunrise to see anyway. At 7 we got up, ate our breakfast and starred longingly at the wall, hatefully at the heavy rain. It stopped! And started again. It stopped again! For good! But no, not really. My sister and her friend wanted to go home and come back another day, but that wasn’t an option for Mikkel and me. (btw, try and imagine that picture up there with a small river on it…)

We convinced the others to give it a shot AND IT ACTUALLY STOPPED! We blame it on Bamses Regnsang, a magic children’s song that causes rain to stop. Man, that was some serious wall CLIMBING.

Good I don’t have any pictures of myself on that part.

But we had the wall all to ourselves and it was so beautiful, BIG and old. My sister and her friend  – the grannies as they called themselves – had almost only brought food/snacks and and a lot of it, so I guess we are the people that ate the most food on such a short trip on the wall.

We had to PAY 20RMB each to get OUT of the wall! Either that, going back the whole way or being eating by the gatekeepers vicious dogs, so guess which option we chose. We made it back safely and payed less than 100RMB pr. person for a trip when guided cost 2.000RMB…

And now I have to run ’cause I agreed to work on my day off, teaching music (I only know a couple of chords on guitar) to a Chinese class (the other teacher doesn’t speak much English) and afterwards cook Danish food (me and cooking is buhao, not existing, especially not with Chinese ingredients + no oven). Very interesting.

Oh, and btw, we’re probably going to one of the Tibetan areas in China (not Tibet, too difficult) next week, and we’ll probably be in Copenhagen the 25/7. More information on that the following days.

LVS films!

I feel proud as a mother hen watching her chickens taking their first steps! Or at least how I would imagine it feeling. The LVS teenagers has made films over two periods and we finally went and saw all of them at two exhibitions this weekend!

The first was in 798 art district as project between young Chinese and Australian people. I was really impressed, it was very moving, inspiring and visually beautiful. In this one, only two of the students was filmed: The student I visited talked about this bracelet they were given that they were to place on one arm when they were sad and the other when they were happy to become more aware of their feelings. The other one who is really fund of drawing told a story about a very famous painter who was very poor before he became famous.

The other was at Hua Dan, which is a theater organization, where we first did a lot of random games in Chinese and then watched the films from several migrant schools. They were suprisingly good as well! Hope that didn’t sound too suprised. These weren’t really with English subs though, but most of the other school’s films were about friendship and our student’s films were about story telling, either a true or a made up one. One of them had made a story up how she was getting involved with the mafia – really creative, I must say, usually she’s always very cute and all.

Hope it will inspire some of them about what to do with their life. A lot of the students have low self esteem and are in generel very negative about life and their future. But they’re awesome, they just don’t know it.